A friend has asked for advice on traveling in Alaska with kids, so I decided to ignore "make system backup discs for new computer" and "finish article due Monday" and "find Valentine's Day Brownie patch for vest" and skip down on the To Do list to "finish blogging Alaska."

Leaving Denali, we found our filthy rental van had been hand-decorated for us by some other travelers. Lovely! We headed down through Wasilla, the Framingham of Alaska. (Sadly, no Palin sightings. I would have loved to snap Piper smoothing down Oscar's hair.) After so long on dirt roads in the wilderness, I was utterly aggravated to have to sit still for a red light. It was during this leg that Charlie gave us the quote of the vacation. After we told him we were taking away all of his Fourth of July parade candy (I can't remember why), he said, "This is a stupid, stupid, stupid, stupid, stupid, stupid, stupid focation." Which only made us laugh harder as we ate his candy.
Our neighbor back home had told us about the Iditarod Center, a gift shop slash hall of fame for the best-known dogsled race in the world. Believe it or not, no web site to link to. Here is Oscar with Balto.
We paid, I can't remember, ten or twenty bucks for a 30-second ride on a cart pulled by real Iditarod dogs. We liked it so much, we used the money that Nana gave us to go again, since Nana had specified that the money was to be spent frivolously.


We traveled on to Seward, where it was cold and rainy. We visited the Alaska SeaLife Center and got to see Maxwell the seal, who I'd read about before we left for Alaska.
We took a harbor cruise, which is the main thing to do in Seward, even though seas were rough. The kids did more Junior Ranger badge work (how hilarious is Oscar in the picture?). We saw some Steller sea lions, otters, and puffins, but Summer felt so sick she had to stand in the wind on deck and chew gum and pray.
As soon as we docked, we felt well enough to clown around on the fishing piers, taking many a rejected-holiday-card-photo.


Next morning, the sun came out for our ranger-guided walk to Exit Glacier. It was gorgeous.

Moving on, we stopped at this lovely little Russian Orthodox church and caught great views of Mt. Redoubt. At the beach nearby we saw as many as six bald eagles at a time. (Not pictured below; those are regular sea gulls. Obviously.)


Next stop: Homer, hometown of Jewel (from the '90s) and Time Bandit (from "the crab show," which, seriously, was on TV every time we turned on a TV for the whole two weeks.). We visited the small and lovely Pratt Museum, which had an excellent little exhibit about the Exxon Valdez spill, including audio from Captain Hazelwood's distress call. Overall, Homer was disappointing. When you are from New England and you hear that there is a quaint town with cute shops, you are expecting more than what you get in Homer. HOWEVER. The B&B where we stayed, Brigitte's Bavarian B&B, was--and I'm not using this word lightly--magical. It appeared to be hand-carved by fairies from driftwood; it was in fact hand-carved by Brigitte and Willie from driftwood. The place teemed with flowers.


This picture made the back of the holiday card.
On the beach, we made friends with an otter.
And then it was time to go home. Two weeks in Alaska--not nearly enough for a state so large that if you cut it in half, Texas would be the third largest state.
We stopped back at Alyeska, the luxury hotel where we stayed during the wedding chunk of our trip (that for some reason I have zero photos of). After weeks of clouds, we hoped for clear skies as we took the tram to the top, and you know what, it wasn't too bad. And throwing snowballs in July is always good.
We finished where we started, in Turnagain Arm, on the way back to Anchorage and the airport and home. We got to see a small bore tide, which is a really cool phenomenon of the tide taking the form of an actual wave. It can be much bigger and more dramatic, but this is the only place where you can see it in North America.
I'm sure I've left out a lot. And I'm sure there's a lot we didn't even do. That's all I've got! If I ever return to Alaska, I'm going to go back to that barbecue hut with the fried pickles. And I'm going to get a telephoto lens so I can take pictures in which grizzly bears appear to be larger than apple seeds.
Thank you, Jeff, for an amazing, once-in-a-lifetime trip.
This was the front of our holiday card for 2010.

For the complete set, visit:
Chunk I: Arrival, Anchorage and Girdwood
Chunk 1.5 The Musk Ox Farm
Chunk II: Kennecott (Jeff says this one is the best)
Chunk III: Denali