The best thing about our vacation was that we were with a family--John's family. John's sister Britta was the baby. She remembers things that John has forgotten on purpose or that he never knew.
This is the farm where John spent his boyhood. The people who live there now tore down the house and built a modern one, but they saved the old entryway as a shed.
Here are Britta, Summer, John and my mom with Aunt Ellie, 84, who, as a teenager walking little John home from school, threw her body over his in a ditch as the Russians bombed the bridge near their farm.
John and his family have been through some seriously harrowing shit that I am not going to get into on the Internet. So it's kind of odd that you'd have trouble finding a more cheerful and pleasant cohort. They follow the motto inscribed on a ceramic plaque that Britta gave me for a gift: "Lycka ar, att minnas gardagen, dromma om morgondagen, och att leva idag." It means "Happiness is remembering yesterday, dreaming of tomorrow, and living today."
If you ask Summer what she liked best about the trip, she says "Making new friends in Finland." Her new friends are Britta's amazing 10-year-old twin grandchildren, Peter and Janina. They speak Swedish because of their father, Spanish because of their mother, English because it is the common language of their parents, Portuguese because until a year ago they lived in Brazil, and now they're learning Finnish in school. Summer picked berries with Peter and Janina, tried the sauna with them, slept in a tent next to the water with them. She loved every minute of it.

One of Jeff's favorite parts of the trip was fishing with Britta's son Tage (pronounced Tar-gay). Jeff caught a pike. Tage caught the second biggest pike he'd ever caught. Tage also helped Charlie drive the tractor, and, when we left Finland, gave Jeff a 350-year-old key from one of his farm buildings. I enjoyed the company of Tage's wife Lorena. Even though we'd never met, we connected to the point of communicating via eyebrows across the dinner table.


As for Charlie, he discovered a passion for sweeping. Outdoors, indoors, in a restaurant, in a historical park, wherever he could find a broom, he swept.

No one else could have the vacation we had, because of the people who so generously hosted and fed us and shared with us what real life is like in Finland. We'll never forget it.